Hair Cutting Scissors: Frequently Asked Questions
How Scissors Are Made | Choosing the Right Shear | Ergonomics | Maintenance | Purchasing Shears
How Scissors Are Made
- Which steel qualities are better, those made in Japan, Korea, or Germany?
- What metals are used in my scissor?
- Can scissors be made of 100% Titanium?
- What are the different categories of stainless steel used to produce hair cutting scissors?
- What is the order of stainless steels in terms of quality?
- Does stainless steel mean that my scissor is stain proof?
- Do Damascus steels, Miracle steels, or Smart steels exist?
- What is the difference between hand-forged shears and cast/stamped shears?
- What are hollow-grinding concave blades?
- What is a Convex edge? What is a Beveled edge?
- What is the difference between shiny-surfaced shears and satin-finished shears?
- My shears have a Titanium colored coating on them, does this mean they are made of Titanium?
- Do colored Titanium coatings make my scissor sharper?
- Is there a scissor that never needs to be sharpened?
How Scissors Are Made | Choosing the Right Shear | Ergonomics | Maintenance | Purchasing Shears
Choosing the Right Shear for You
- How should a shear feel in my hand?
- Why is it so important to find the right scissor for me?
- Why are there lighter and heavier shears?
- What is the right length of the scissor for me?
- What is a true left-handed shear?
- What are thinning/blending shears?
- What do thinning/blending shears with teeth on both blades do?
- What are texturizing shears?
- What are chunking/notching shears, fishback shears, and other specialty texturizers?
- What is the correct tension for a thinning, texturizing, or chunking shear?
- Why should a shear feel well balanced in my hand?
- What are the different handle configurations: off-set, opposing, and crane-handle?
- What are scissor finger inserts/rings?
How Scissors Are Made | Choosing the Right Shear | Ergonomics | Maintenance | Purchasing Shears
Ergonomics
- What does it mean if a scissor is Ergonomic?
- What are some features of ergonomic scissors - swivel, double swivel, and bent thumb shears?
- I have hand, arm, shoulder, neck and back problems, what should I do?
- I cannot get used to a swivel scissor, what other scissor would you recommend to help the pain in my hands, neck, and shoulder?
How Scissors Are Made | Choosing the Right Shear | Ergonomics | Maintenance | Purchasing Shears
Maintenance
- Why is it important to clean my shears?
- How should I clean my shears?
- How often should I oil my shears?
- Why should I have a case for my scissors?
- On average, how often should my shears be serviced?
- Why is it important to choose a good sharpener to sharpen my shears?
- How long should my shears last?
How Scissors Are Made | Choosing the Right Shear | Ergonomics | Maintenance | Purchasing Shears
Purchasing Shears
How Scissors Are Made | Choosing the Right Shear | Ergonomics | Maintenance | Purchasing Shears
Hair Cutting Scissors: Frequently Asked Questions
How Scissors are Made
- Which steel qualities are better, those made in Japan, Korea, or Germany?
- What metals are used in my scissor?
- Can scissors be made of 100% Titanium?
- What are the different categories of stainless steel used to produce hair cutting scissors?
- What is the order of stainless steels in terms of quality?
Steel categories from lowest to highest:
420 (used in almost all Pakistani scissors)440A
440C
S-1 (“cobalted” steels start at this category)S-3
*Vanadium & Titanium are important because they add strength and toughness to the steel, but are light and so they take away weight to help keep scissors light weight.
V-1 (measurable amounts of Vanadium* & Titanium start here)
V-10
V-10 G or V-10 Gold
ATS-314 (highest amounts of Cobalt, Vanadium & Titanium in a steel category)
Higher steel categories take a better edge and hold it longer, but that also depends on workmanship and the tempering process of the shear. - Does stainless steel mean that my scissor is stain proof?
- Do Damascus steels, Miracle steels, or Smart steels exist?
- What is the difference between hand-forged shears and cast/stamped shears?
- What are hollow-grinding concave blades?
- What is a Convex edge? What is a Beveled Edge?
- What is the difference between shiny-surfaced shears and satin-finished shears?
- My shears have a Titanium colored coating on them, does this mean they are made of Titanium?
- Do colored Titanium coatings make my scissor sharper?
- Is there a scissor that never needs to be sharpened?
All hair cutting shears are made with STAINLESS STEEL that is manufactured in either Japan, Korea, Germany, Taiwan, China, India or Pakistan. The steel made in Japan is regarded as the best scissor steel in the world. Korean, Taiwanese, and Chinese steels are good, but tend to be a little softer metal and do not hold an edge as well as Japanese steels. German steel is very hard steel, usually too hard to sharpen to a razor edge. Pakistani and Indian steels are the poorest quality and do not sharpen or hold an edge well.
Caralee Dunbabin of Shear Technology discusses what goes into the cost of a hair-cutting scissor:
The process of making good scissor steel is the result of an exact recipe in which several ores, alloys and elements are combined in a well-balanced mixture that gives you just the right cutting tool. CARBON is the principal hardener in steel. The more carbon that is added, the harder it gets. Carbon content should be between .95 and 1.2% of the finished steel. A steel that is too hard will not perform well for slide or dry cutting. MOLYBDENUM adds toughness and increases corrosion resistance to chemicals that can cause pitting and dulling. MANGANESE contributes to the tensile strength of the blade, so that it will retain its edge longer. CHROMIUM protects against corrosion and also adds heat resistance so that the steel will maintain its desired properties during forging and finishing. VANADIUM adds toughness and fatigue resistance so that the scissor will maintain its set and balance. COBALT and TITANIUM are also added to some steels to increase hardness and decrease weight, and adding these alloys will result in the finest scissor steel. Keep in mind, however, that COBALT and TITANIUM are only additives to stainless steel, NO scissor is made of 100% cobalt or titanium or any other alloy. That would be like trying to make a chocolate cake out of nothing but cocoa powder.
TITANIUM is only an additive to stainless steel, NO scissor is made of 100% titanium or any other alloy. That would be like trying to make a chocolate cake out of nothing but cocoa powder.
Good quality stainless steels are divided into categories depending on the alloys used in their production. Good stainless steel categories range from 440A to 440C, S-1 to S-3 (also called “Silver”) Tooling Steels, the “V” steels ( ranging from “V-1” to “V-10 Gold”), to the highest grade of Japanese steel: Hitachi’s ATS-314. The ATS-314 steel is the finest, most expensive scissor steel in the world. When purchasing your shears, you will get the best cut from a shear made with Japanese 440C, or higher grade, stainless steel. All categories above the 440 grade are considered “Cobalted” steels.
Stylists need to remember that STAINLESS STEEL is not stain PROOF steel.
Don’t be misled by terms such as “Damascus Steel” (a steel that has not been produced since the 1700's) or “Miracle Steel” or "Smart Steel”. These do not represent actual steel categories and are just hype.
HOW a scissor is made is also of vital importance. The best scissors are HAND-FORGED as opposed to CAST or STAMPED shears. Stamped shears are the most inexpensive and are not usually hollow-ground. They are not as sharp and have a lot of drag on the blade. Many shears now made in Taiwan or China are CAST shears that are digitally finished. The tempering (hardening) process on cast scissors does not produce a shear that will hold an edge as long as a forged shear, but that should be reflected in a lower price. Also, hand-forged shears can have a much sharper edge, depending on the craftsman making the shear, but the digital finishing produces a uniformly consistent mid-range scissor.
Any scissor you purchase should have uniform hollow-grinding (CONCAVE) on the inner surface of the blade and a narrow but consistent “ride line” along the cutting edge.
In general, most poor quality scissors (made out of poorer quality steels such as 400 and 420 stainless steels) have a beveled edge because this edge is thicker than a convex edge and this thickness helps support the sharp edge of the blade. This means that the scissor will never cut as well as a convex shear and the edge will deteriorate more quickly. However, there are some older brands of Japanese scissors such as Omega, Nova, Fuji, Matsuzaki, etc. that have been engineered for a very sharp bevel edge made out of fine quality Japanese steels that will perform every bit as well as a quality convex edge. Most shears are made with a convex edge now because stylists have been told that convex edges are better and so it is easier to go with the flow. And since the quality of a beveled shear must be VERY high to equal the performance of a convex shear, convex edges are more advantageous in the mid-range to lower-range shears.
Most stylists prefer a CONVEX (Hamaguri or Clamshell) edge. However, if the steel in your shear is of superior quality and the blade was designed originally with a beveled edge, that is the edge it should always have.
In general, shiny-surfaced shears resist corrosion and pitting better than satin-finished scissors.
Many shears now come in colors and can be referred to as “Titanium” scissors. It is important to be aware that this does not mean that the scissors are made from Titanium, but that the color is a Titanium coating and therefore will not chip or peel off.
The Titanium used to color the scissor will not make it any sharper nor will it make the edge last longer. It just produces a pretty surface that is very long-lasting.
It is also important to note that there is No such thing as a scissor that NEVER needs to be sharpened. ALL scissors must be sharpened when they get dull or are nicked.
Choosing the Right Shear for You
- How should a shear feel in my hand?
- Why is it so important to find the right scissor for me?
- Why are there lighter and heavier shears?
- What is the right length of the scissor for me?
- What is a true left-handed shears?
The most important thing that you should look for in a shear after you have established what quality of shear you wish to purchase, is how it FEELS, not just in your hand, but how it feels to your WHOLE BODY. The wrong shear can contribute to CARPAL TUNNEL SYNDROME, TENDONITIS, BURSITIS, ROTATOR CUP, and other hand, arm, shoulder, neck and back problems. The right shear can prevent, or even cure, these problems. The factors that will make it a good shear for you are: WEIGHT, LENGTH, BALANCE and HANDLE CONFIGUATION.
The wrong shear can contribute to CARPAL TUNNEL SYNDROME, TENDONITIS, BURSITIS, ROTATOR CUP, and other hand, arm, shoulder, neck and back problems. The right shear can prevent, or even cure, these problems.
There are hundreds of different styles on the market and one way in which they differ is weight. Some people like a heavy shear, most stylists prefer a lighter scissor. Be aware of your preference and make sure that the weight of the scissor is comfortable and that you have a feeling of control all the way to the tip of the blade.
Most scissors range in length from 4.5” to 8”. To choose a basic cutting tool, you should measure the length of the blade against your middle finger, and the overall length of the scissor against the extended palm of your hand. Most women are more comfortable working with a 5” or 5.5” scissor, while most men prefer a 5.5” or 6.0” shear. Longer shears, such as 6.5” to 8” scissors are good for scissor over comb work and longer styles.
On a true left handed shear, the sharp edge of the top blade is on the left-hand side of the blade. The trouble with a left-handed stylist using a right-handed shear is that it puts more stress and tension on her hand to be able to use that shear.
Caralee Dunbabin of Shear Technology explains why it is important for a left-handed stylist to be using a true left-handed shear:
- What are thinning/blending shears?
- What do thinning/blending shears with teeth on both blades do?
- What are texturizing shears?
Thinning/blending shears can save time and produce more uniform results when softening “lines” and “corners”, feathering, thinning bulk, or adding volume.
Caralee Dunbabin of Shear Technology explains the benfits of a thinning/blending scissor:
Caralee Dunbabin of Shear Technology explans the benefits of a double teeth thinner, like the Mirage B-30, B-15, & B-40:
View Thinners with Teeth on Both Blades
Texturizing shears generally have between 13 and 16 teeth. The teeth are farther spaced on a thinner and they tend to be a little thicker. They are used in the place of point cutting for feathering bangs and hair around the face. They also are used for providing texture to the hairstyle and give a more spiky look, but not very extreme.
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What are chunking/notching shears, fishback shears, and other specialty texturizers?
Caralee Dunbabin of Shear Technology disusses what a texturizing shear is:
Chunking/Notching shears have between 5 & 9 teeth. These shears are used for that really spiky look known as spiked hair or fractured hair. They take out large chunks of hair but in less frequent intervals than a thinner/blender or a texturizing shear.
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What is the correct tension for a thinning, texturizing, or chunking scissor?
- Why should a shear feel well balanced in my hand?
- What are the different handle configurations: off-set, opposing, and crane-handle?
- What are finger inserts/rings?
Caralee Dunbabin of Shear Technology explains what chunkers, fishback shears, and specialty texturizers are used for:
The tension of your thinning, texturizing, or chunking scissors should be a little tighter than the tension of your regular shears.
Caralee Dunbabin of Shear Technology explains why the tension for a thinning, texturizing, or chunking shear should be a little tighter:
A shear should feel well-balanced in your hand. That means that neither the handle nor the blade should feel too heavy when you are cutting with the scissor. You don’t want to feel that you are working to hold the tip of the blade level with the cutting surface, or your hand will become easily fatigued.
Handle configuration is probably one of the biggest considerations when choosing a new shear. OPPOSING or STRAIGHT handled shears put the most strain on the hand, wrist, arm, shoulder, neck and back. OFF-SET and CRANE-HANDLE shears put less strain on the body and are usually a better choice.
Finger inserts/rings are plastic rings you put inside your scissor finger holes to reduce the size of the finger holes. Use finger inserts so that your scissors will fit your fingers and thumb. The holes on a scissor handle should not be sloppy and should not go past your knuckle, especially on your thumb. A poor fit will put more strain on your hand and dull your scissors more quickly.
Caralee Dunbabin of Shear Technology explains how beneficial finger sizers can be for stylists:
Ergonomics
- What does it mean if a scissor is Ergonomic?
- What are some features of Ergonomic scissors?
- I have hand, arm, shoulder, neck and back problems, what should I do?
- I cannot get used to a swivel scissor, what other scissor would you recommend to help the pain in my hands, neck, and shoulder?
An ergonomic scissor is designed so that it puts the least amount of stress on the hand, arm, shoulder and back when the stylist is cutting. Ergonomic scissors can help reduce pain in your hand, elbow, shoulder, and back. They can also help if you are suffering from carpal tunnel syndrome, tendinitis, or bursitis. There are a number of ergonomic styles: double swivels, swivels, and bent thumbs. To learn more about these different designs, check out the videos below, in the next section:
Off-set or crane handles, which allow the finger and thumb to not move in order to comfortably grip the shear.
Spacing between the finger and thumb rings, which prevents your hand from cramping. A bent down thumb ring or a rotating thumb swivel ring, which allows the stylist to straighten her writst and drop her shoulder and elbow. Check out demonstrations of ergonomic scissor handle designs below:
Caralee Dunbabin of Shear Technology shows how to use an ergonomic swivel shear and how it can really help stylists who suffer from pain in their hands, elbow, shoulder, or back:
Caralee Dunbabin demonstrates what a double swivel scissor is and the freedom of movement it provides the stylist:
A shear with a bent thumb can also help to drop your elbow, straighten your wrist and reduce tension. Caralee Dunbabin demonstrates a shear with this ergonomic design:
Things that will help in this problem are using an ergonomically correct shear, such as a shear with an off-set handle, a crane handle, bent down thumb ring, or particularily a rotating swivel thumb, and using a shear that is not too heavy. View the videos in the question above to learn more about finding the right ergonomic shear for you.
A scissor like the Shisato Echo, which has most of the design features of a swivel shear but has a very severely bent down thumb instead of a rotating thumb, is a great alternative to a swivel.
Caralee Dunbabin of Shear Technology showcases the Shisato Echo, an alternative shear to a swivel shear:
Maintenance
- Why is it important to clean my shears?
- How should I clean my shears?
- How often should I oil my shears?
- Why should I have a case for my scissors?
- On average, how often should my shears be serviced?
- Why is it important to choose a good sharpener to sharpen my shears?
- How long should my shears last?
Shears should be CLEANED at the end of each day, before they are put in their case for the night. And if you are cutting permed hair, colored hair or hair impregnated with chlorine, you should wipe down the blades with alcohol and dry them after the cut. These chemicals can dull your blades. Hair and dirt left on scissors can cause rusting and pitting.
Clean your shears with a damp towel or wash cloth - be careful not to cut yourself!
At least once a week, you should OIL your scissors at the pivot point. Clipper blade oil is fine for this.
It is best to store your scissors in a CASE whenever they are not in your hands. This will prevent customers and other stylists from “borrowing” your scissors to do things like cut out recipies and cut off the tops of perm bottles.
We recommend having any shears that you use on a regular basis serviced at least once a year. They need to be cleaned, set and balanced, even if they are still sharp.
ALWAYS use a qualified sharpener, whose work you have seen. NEVER use a sharpener who is unknown to you or others in your shop, or who cannot provide you with references. A hack can RUIN your expensive scissors.
If you choose your shears carefully and care for them properly, they will serve you in comfort for many years.
Purchasing Shears
- What should I expect from a good scissor company?
- What is the importance of a lifetime warranty?
* ANY GOOD COMPANY SHOULD BE ABLE TO TELL YOU HOW THEIR SHEARS ARE MADE, WHERE THEY WERE MADE AND WHAT KIND OF STEEL THEY WERE MADE WITH.
*ANY GOOD COMPANY SHOULD DEAL QUICKLY AND FAIRLY WITH ANY PROBLEMS OR CONCERNS YOU MAY HAVE ABOUT YOUR SHEARS.
*BE SURE TO ASK QUESTIONS AND LEARN ALL YOU CAN ABOUT THE COMPANY YOU BUY SHEARS FROM.
View Scissor Distributors in Your Area
* ANY GOOD SHEAR SHOULD HAVE A LIFETIME WARRANTY AGAINST MANUFACTURER'S DEFECTS.